This season the makeup and hairstyling race is highlighted by two remarkable transformations: the unrecognizable Jared Leto as Paolo in the frontrunning “House of Gucci” (which led with the MUAHS Awards with three nominations for period makeup, hair, and special makeup effects), and Stellan Skarsgård’s horrifying Baron in “Dune.” Other shortlisted contenders include Emma Stone’s punk-inspired look in “Cruella” and Jessica Chastain empowered Tammy Faye Bakker in “The Eyes of Tammy Faye.”
“Dune” (Warner Bros.) offers an amazing breadth of work from Denis Villeneuve’s go-to makeup, hair, and prosthetics designer Donald Mowat. But the standout, of course, is the 600-pound, often naked, Baron Harkonnen, inspired by Marlon Brando’s hybrid gorilla look from “Apocalypse Now” and “The Island of Dr. Moreau.” Mowat tapped the Swedish team of prosthetics artists Love Larson and Eva von Bahr to create the complex suit, requiring a heavy load of silicone, with plaster bandages to support the frame and maintain the shape of the silicone, while the head and shoulders were done separately. The seven-hour process for the full suit was then followed by separate pieces for the neck, head, chin, cheeks, earlobes, and hand prosthetics over the knuckles. Overall, it’s a remarkable transformation for the sinister baddie.
In Ridley Scott’s “House of Gucci” (United Artists Releasing), prosthetics designer Göran Lundströn got creative transforming Leto into the balding and chubby would-be fashion designer Paolo. He did some reverse engineering to obliterate the look of the long-haired, thin actor (who wore a fat suit), with a three-piece bald cap, a wig, more than half a dozen prosthetic pieces, and a tweaked mustache. But to arrive on set ready to perform as Paolo, Leto had Lundströn apply his tour de force prosthetics elsewhere, hidden from the rest of the cast.
Stellan Skarsgård as Baron Harkonnen in “Dune”
Makeup and hair designer Nadia Stacey (“The Favourite”) did a bit of reverse engineering for creating Stone’s ’70s punk look in “Cruella” (Disney) origin story. The idea was to work toward the eventual iconic two-toned black-and-white hairdo, black eyeshadow, liner, and red lips. Stacey began by going beyond the black-and-white hair and a dash of makeup for Cruella’s coming out party in the stunning red dress. She built a mask using jewels and makeup as a deception. But Stacey’s most inspired punk look was “The Future” mask stenciled in black on Stone’s face, coupled with sparkly red lipstick, riffing on the Sex Pistols’ legendary album cover, “Never Mind The Bollocks.”
Emily Stone in “Cruella”
To recreate Tammy Faye Bakker’s iconic features, hair, and unique style, for “The Eyes of Tammy Faye” (Searchlight Pictures), makeup artist Linda Dowds, hairstylist Stephanie Ingram, and prosthetics designer Justin Raleigh worked in tandem to perfect the famed look. Raleigh and his team at Fractured FX designed the prosthetics that changed the overall anatomy of Chastain and Andrew Garfield, to closely match the real Jim and Tammy, along with continuity in the actors as they physically aged throughout the film. Ingram custom-made 10 wigs for Tammy’s various looks, which involved elaborate combinations of different wigs to create Bakker’s trademark multi-layered, highlighted fluff.
Listed in alphabetical order, the films represent the shortlisted contenders. No film will be considered a frontrunner until we have seen it.
“House of Gucci”
“The Eyes of Tammy Faye”
“The Suicide Squad”
“West Side Story”
“Coming 2 America”
“No Time to Die”
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