For Saint Laurent, black is not just a color but a two-sided symbol of sophistication and brand identity. But when you primarily use only one color to voice each passing collection, innovation remains rather tricky because you cannot hide behind drama or fanciful fabrications. Simply, there just has to be great clothes and this is a feat that Anthony Vaccarello’s Fall/Winter 2023 menswear collection for Saint Laurent tastefully accomplishes.
Housed at Paris’ Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection museum, attendees should have departed the show with one primary feeling – one of overwhelming and timeless glamour. Almost entirely cloaked in black with the exception of spread-out cuts of white, beige, camel and gray, the collection was a real exhibition of not just Vaccarello’s design chops, but the forward-reaching direction of menswear design. Enlarged bows that have long been a versatile design detail of womenswear garments made their way to collection tops crafted in supple silk. The same attention to refined yet revered fixtures came to be in other chest-bearing silk chiffon draped tops in shades of black, white and soft beige.
Alongside tops, floor-hugging overcoats brought Vaccarello’s vision of classic luxury into view. Some overcoats heralded ultra-sharp shoulders while others were more relaxed alongside broad lapel detailing – appearing in wool, cashmere, mohair, smooth leather and glistening patent leather fabrications. Elsewhere in the collection were hooded pieces, knitwear tunics with extended necks and streamlined paneled pants.
The beauty in Vaccarello’s latest is that it remained undeniably pure – where fluidity was a focal hallmark and clean garments were always the primary goal.
Take a look at Saint Laurent’s FW23 menswear collection in the gallery and video above.
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