With Florentin Glémarec and Kevin Nompeix of EGONlab., evoking a punk spirit is a foundational design philosophy that pervades every collection. Whether it be through exquisitely crafted tailoring or light-hearted knitwear, every garment touches on what it means to be just that, a punk. Last season, the brand teetered on the lighthearted side of design – merging a slew of kitsch and campy cartoons with cuts of classic tailoring. For the Fall/Winter 2023 season, the designers dig deep into French nighttime flare to present an offering that’s rebelliously moody while retaining its core punk motivations.
Titled “PARASOMNIA,” the runway presented an apt take on when some of fashion’s best looks come out to play, at night. There’s an intrinsic courage and edge that rises when the sun falls, which results in a widespread exhibition of style – high and low as well as punk to elevated. Plainly, nighttime style is full of character and that’s where EGONlab.’s latest collection gets its bearings.
As usual, tailoring remains a focal design element – opening the show for the brand’s seventh collection. Blazers and overcoats appear with sky-reaching shoulder details and enlarged sleeves. Out of these, an oversized boxy-cut fuchsia-colored with elongated sleeves stands as a gleaming highlight. Its pairing with knee-less lace-up leather pants and a skinny-striped scarf doesn’t hurt the eye-catching look either. Knitwear then comes into the fold via oversized sweaters emblazoned with large letter Es and distressed detailing. Elsewhere, tops take form in a myriad of designs from motion-blur floral prints to painting-inspired button-down shirts.
Whether it be outerwear, tailored garments, knitwear, tops or pants, what makes the collection dually unique and strong is its blendings of fabrics – aptly portraying the spectrum of nighttime style. There’s fur, leather, houndstooth, nylon, silk, multiple shades of denim and even velvet. Saving the best for last is a showstopping multicolored tinsel coat that’s made for brightening anytime nighttime space.
With the brand’s seventh collection, it’s evident that its spirit of punk rebellion is clearly one of confidence.
Take a look at EGONlab.’s Fall 2023 collection in the gallery above.
Elsewhere in fashion, Ètudes gets gritty for FW23.
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